Choosing the right drill bit is essential and a drill is only as good as the bit used to perform the drilling. After all it is the part of the drill that does the real work. There's no point having a cutting edge variable speed drill with hammer action, pop-off chuck, 6 batteries and a depth gauge if the literal cutting edge is of inferior quality and is not very good at what it was made for, cutting!
The bit is help in place by the chuck. The heard of the drill can be made wider than the chuck to enable drilling large holes without needing a hugh chuck.
Let's have a look at the different types of bit. Remember the bit willdo all of the work and because there are many different surfaces to drill into there are many different types of drill bits to match. If the bit and the material being drill aren't made for each other you won't get very far.
Countersunk bits
The drill bit which matches the screw type. Countersunk screws have a cone extending out from the screw thread at the narrowest point and getting wider at the head of the screw. The countersunk drill bit bores a hole to match this shape and leave a snug fitting and hole for the screw and a flat finish on the timber.
Spade bits
Wide and flat with a sharp, precise center point for precision drilling. The wide fat blade bores large holes in timber. Ideal for passing wires and pipes through.
Center point drill bits
Without a sharp point to press into the wood it can be hard to start a hole in the correct position with this type of drill bit but combat this by gouging an indentation where the center of the hole will be and start to drill slowly until their is enough depth to the whole that the bit cannot move off course.
Masonry
A flat nose on the end of the bit means the masonry bit grinds away at the stone, rather than cuts it. For added impact a hammer action pounds the flat bit back and forth into the masonry, compounding the crush of the material.